Surfing 201

Beyond Basics Surfing Course for Intermediates

Surfing 201 in the follow on course for surfers who have mastered the basics covered in Surfing 101. Surfing 201 takes a deeper look into understanding the forces that we use in surfing and the techniques we will use to catch more waves, and ride more waves. Before reading this section you should have already read Surfing 101 and the section of How waves are made.

Reading the Waves:

Understanding the surfing area is crucial to understanding how the waves work and distribute their power. Most beginners cannot get into position, because they lack the skills or knowledge. or they have failed to read the conditions correctly. This diagram illustrates the typical surf break scenarios. The waves are breaking away from shore on a shallow bottom, either a reef break or a sandbar. Some waves break onto the beach as shore break, and other waves will be produced around the headlands as a point break. Each wave zone has a different character. Generally, we would recommend staying out of the shore-pound, and away from the point breaks until you have more skills. Surfing the shore break is risky because of the chance of you getting dumped and or going over the falls. More injuries happen in this type of wave than any other. you can get hurt in waist deep water, if you get dumped on your head or neck. Waves breaking is slightly deeper water away from the shore will be better for mastering the beginner and intermediate surfing skills. The seafloor surface should ideally be sand or smooth bottom. Sharp living reef is not recommended. The water depth should usually be four to five feet deep or deeper. Remember in shallow water you will not be able to dive headfirst. The area where the waves are breaking is called the impact zone. The first this to observe when reading the waves is how the whitewater is distributed. Look for the channels, and the area of the largest breaking waves. If there are other surfers on the break watch where they are paddling out. When watching the surf it is important to wait until you have see the entire set of waves. Waves usually come in groups called sets. There are a group of smaller waves with some larger ones in between. When you know what the pattern of the set is going to be you can plan you surfing strategy better to take advantage of the wave energy.